So as the snow melts outside my house I takes away the last remainders of crimbo with it – a lush time surrounded by family and festive fun, a far cry from Bondi beach last year – but an epic one all the same.
Xmas eve saw a trip to the pub with my mates after work for a good old catch up and xmas day was spent opening pressies and gorging on the usual foodie treats and relaxing in front of the fire with a tipple or two – but it was boxing day that provided a real festive treat.
Having spent the bulk of my year sunning myself in Australia I became accustomed to a certain degree of warmth, and more importantly – surf!
Since starting my new job the swell has been non existant – not just for me, but the south west in general. It’s been a rather lengthy flat spell too, with pretty much the entire coast being bare for the last few months.
But it seemed that the surf gods were going to make up for it and provide us some serious salt water therapy in the way of a slightly belated crimbo pressie. Witht the charts lined up and the wind a light offshore December 25th right through to new years look set to be rather packed with waves – just what santa ordered.
We decided on a boxing day session, so at 8:30am, with christmas day hangovers in tow myself, the little brother, cat and little cribby hit the north devon link for the coast. And we weren’t alone – every person in the local vicinity who was surf starved and hardcore enough was doing the same!
…and it was -10 degrees as we hastily changed into our 5mm steamers, complete with gloves, booties but unfortunately a distinct lack of so called “twat caps”!
But the extreme cold and traipsing over a snow covered beach was well worth it – 3 foot and offshore is the perfect way to wash away the festive excess! Even the ice cream headaches didn’t phase us much, although it did mean we had less time in the water than usual…although whether that was down to the cold or the fact our lack of practice is anyones guess!hahaha!
And so I finish the festive season full of surfy goodness – I can only hope that you all had an epic one too – next stop new year!
