Out Back, The Wreck
The above shot was taken this week at The Wreck – during my penultimate Aussie surf with my little brother. Here he and Jonesey sit out back in between sets while I frantically swim around trying to avoid hold downs and be in the right spot for their waves…fun times!But I took the time to get a calmer shot of them, framed by the exposed metal of the Wreck where we had so many good surfs.