Well today was pretty freaking epic.
After last nights party carnage I started the day with a pretty significant hangover!
A good brew at the Beach Hotel brought that under slight control though!
As I watched the waves at The Wreck roll in I decided to bite the bullet and go for a session…lets face it that first duck dive will either make or break your hangover!
After managing to rouse an equally suffering Nick we hit the water, still somewhat intoxicated.
Within 10mins we were cured and an awesome surf session unfolded. The 2 foot lines beefed up in the reversing tide and soon we were tackling 4-6 foot sets, peeling left.
What’s more it was uber hollow and I set to work on the log busting out some gouging turns and epic rides, with some local boys egging me on and getting an awesome vibe going :)
But to top it all both me an Nick scored some cheeky barrels – who could ask for more?
After a quick lunch break we were back in the water for a late afternoon sesh, not quite as good but great fun anyhow.
So now after about 8 hours in the water, one of the best surfs of my life and truly stoked I’m absolutely shattered!
…but an evening BBQ of kangaroo steak and a couple glasses of wine have wrapped up one of my ultimate Oz highlights.